After two years of ‘confinement’ it was great to be able to set off for Dover, cross to Calais and head south for a late spell of warm weather before the winter.
The car’s the star, of course and a 2,500 mile 11-day round trip in a Kia Stinger 3.3-litre Twin-Turbo V6 was a stark reminder of what we will lose should the UK insist on its 2030 ban on the sale of new ICEs (2035 for Hybrids – as yet undefined).
But hope remains that wiser counsels might prevail. The EU has had compromised, to an extent, and delayed its draconian Euro 7 Regulation — but only until around 2025-2026 apparently (and all cars will still have to be ‘zero emission’ by 2035).
The car’s the star, of course and a 2,500 mile 11-day round trip in a Kia Stinger 3.3-litre Twin-Turbo V6 was a stark reminder of what we will lose should the UK insist on its 2030 ban on the sale of new ICEs (2035 for Hybrids – as yet undefined).
But hope remains that wiser counsels might prevail. The EU has had compromised, to an extent, and delayed its draconian Euro 7 Regulation — but only until around 2025-2026 apparently (and all cars will still have to be ‘zero emission’ by 2035).
Synthetic (non-carbon) fuels are being trialled intensively — not least by Porsche in its racing cars. Bio-fuels are attracting attention and very much to the fore in Mazda thinking, for example. To many however hydrogen-fuelled ICEs are the holy grail.
Hydrogen ICE refuelling times are on a par with petrol or Diesel while the ‘mpg’ gap is narrowing all the time. Toyota has been setting the pace here and showed a GR Yaris H2 Toyota Gazoo Racing concept Rally Car at the recent Rally Japan.
That Kia will not replace the Stinger here is down not to the legislative climate, but to the dominance of the SUV. This is particularly evident in the larger car, premium category. Instead, the company will concentrate on its battery electric range. Current flagship here is the EV6 crossover a GT variant on the way.
Hydrogen ICE refuelling times are on a par with petrol or Diesel while the ‘mpg’ gap is narrowing all the time. Toyota has been setting the pace here and showed a GR Yaris H2 Toyota Gazoo Racing concept Rally Car at the recent Rally Japan.
That Kia will not replace the Stinger here is down not to the legislative climate, but to the dominance of the SUV. This is particularly evident in the larger car, premium category. Instead, the company will concentrate on its battery electric range. Current flagship here is the EV6 crossover a GT variant on the way.
Dover-Calais ferry crossing completed we decided, as in previous years, to head for Rouen. First overnight was Chartres and as it’s south–west of Paris, it made sense.
However, the road network around the Rouen area is being up-graded significantly and that meant some delays. On the return journey, the SatNav took us through (not just around) Paris – should have listened to it in the first place.
Hotel: Grand Monarque, place des Epars, Chartres. Just across from the cathedral. Stayed there many times now, staff are friendly and helpful; restaurant and brasserie well-regarded locally and it has a secure car-park (€10 per night) www.monarque.fr
Next stop: Cahors, more or less due south and following the Routes Nationales adds interest. The aim is to get the bulk of the driving over by lunch-time so that there’s time to walk around, find a nice place for dinner, etc. First time here and it didn’t impress. Hopeless from a vegetarian point of view and (vaguely) unwelcoming.
However, the road network around the Rouen area is being up-graded significantly and that meant some delays. On the return journey, the SatNav took us through (not just around) Paris – should have listened to it in the first place.
Hotel: Grand Monarque, place des Epars, Chartres. Just across from the cathedral. Stayed there many times now, staff are friendly and helpful; restaurant and brasserie well-regarded locally and it has a secure car-park (€10 per night) www.monarque.fr
Next stop: Cahors, more or less due south and following the Routes Nationales adds interest. The aim is to get the bulk of the driving over by lunch-time so that there’s time to walk around, find a nice place for dinner, etc. First time here and it didn’t impress. Hopeless from a vegetarian point of view and (vaguely) unwelcoming.
In the morning we head for Toulouse and leave its ‘peripherique’ taking the autoroute westwards towards Pau. At St Gaudens, we exit the motorway for the south again (N 125) and begin the climb through the foothills of the Pyrenees passing through the villages St Beat and Fos. Once over the Franco-Spanish border we arrive at the small town of Vielha, a further climb up to the tunnel and down then to Lleida.
Hotel: Parador de Turismo de Lleida. Based on converted religious buildings since 1928, the Parador network of Spain has been a great success. Originally the Lleida hotel was a convent and is a substantial edifice of historical significance.
Hitherto we’ve driven through rather than stayed in Lleida but this turned out to be a welcome break in the journey. Staff went out of their way to ensure we enjoyed this first visit and the chef did us a ‘bespoke’ vegetarian dinner that evening which was really quite special. A (very) secure car park (€15.45 per night): www.parador.es
Hotel: Parador de Turismo de Lleida. Based on converted religious buildings since 1928, the Parador network of Spain has been a great success. Originally the Lleida hotel was a convent and is a substantial edifice of historical significance.
Hitherto we’ve driven through rather than stayed in Lleida but this turned out to be a welcome break in the journey. Staff went out of their way to ensure we enjoyed this first visit and the chef did us a ‘bespoke’ vegetarian dinner that evening which was really quite special. A (very) secure car park (€15.45 per night): www.parador.es
Valderrobres (Spanish), Vall-de-roures (Catalan) province of Teruel, is a small but important town in the eastern, Catalan-speaking, area of Aragon. It’s a two to three-hour drive south from the major Catalan city of Lleida.
A world away from “the Costas” the town has a mediaeval, 14th century castle, 16th century church and Renaissance era town hall. Similar hill-top fortified villages are found throughout this un-spoilt region. The name means Valley of the Oaks and the Ports de Tortosa-Beseit mountain range stand between it and the sea.
Hotel: La Torre del Visco. Built in the early 15th century and renovated in the 1990s this fortified manor house and watchtower is a small Relais & Chateaux hotel offering peace and quiet in a beautiful 220 acre setting. The name means ‘Mistletoe Tower’ in the local dialect and the bodega in the tower with its extensive selection of wine is the original one: torredelvisco@torredelvisco.com
A world away from “the Costas” the town has a mediaeval, 14th century castle, 16th century church and Renaissance era town hall. Similar hill-top fortified villages are found throughout this un-spoilt region. The name means Valley of the Oaks and the Ports de Tortosa-Beseit mountain range stand between it and the sea.
Hotel: La Torre del Visco. Built in the early 15th century and renovated in the 1990s this fortified manor house and watchtower is a small Relais & Chateaux hotel offering peace and quiet in a beautiful 220 acre setting. The name means ‘Mistletoe Tower’ in the local dialect and the bodega in the tower with its extensive selection of wine is the original one: torredelvisco@torredelvisco.com
After five days at ‘TdV’, we set off on the return journey with French stop-overs planned at Albi and Bourges. We’d visited Albi in 2019 and were looking forward to a repeat visit.
Central feature is another magnificent French cathedral and seat of the Catholic Archbishop. The environs host cafes and bars - a relaxed, sociable place.
Hotel: Alchimy, Place du Palais, Albi (pictured below). We visited in 2019 and stayed at this boutique hotel. It was good and we were looking forward to a repeat visit – it didn’t disappoint. Beautifully fitted out, it had weathered the lock-down and reopened better than ever. Again, the chef cooked an excellent vegetarian meal and the standard of service was first class. Secure car park (€15 per night): www.alchimyalbi.fr
Having resolved to stay longer next year we set off for Bourges. It’s always a bit sad to leave the soft Mediterranean light and warmth of the south but, more often than not, we’ve been lucky with the weather here. This time, however, it rained.
Central feature is another magnificent French cathedral and seat of the Catholic Archbishop. The environs host cafes and bars - a relaxed, sociable place.
Hotel: Alchimy, Place du Palais, Albi (pictured below). We visited in 2019 and stayed at this boutique hotel. It was good and we were looking forward to a repeat visit – it didn’t disappoint. Beautifully fitted out, it had weathered the lock-down and reopened better than ever. Again, the chef cooked an excellent vegetarian meal and the standard of service was first class. Secure car park (€15 per night): www.alchimyalbi.fr
Having resolved to stay longer next year we set off for Bourges. It’s always a bit sad to leave the soft Mediterranean light and warmth of the south but, more often than not, we’ve been lucky with the weather here. This time, however, it rained.
Hotel: Hotel de Bourbon Mercure, Avenue Jean Jaures, Bourges. A regular stop for us on the return trip, the hotel is a short walk from the centre and is good value. There is a free (first come, first served) car park in front of the hotel and the barrier is lowered overnight.
Like many provincial towns numerous businesses here did not survive lock-down. This included a small restaurant who always did a veggie meal for us. We had to resort to a Thai Street Food outlet but, at least, it was piping hot and we could eat in.
Hotel staff were welcoming as in the past and there’s a convivial lounge bar which rounded off the evening nicely. We’d also been up-graded on arrival. As we left for Paris and Calais that’s how it felt in motoring terms: up-graded. We’ll miss this car.
By Huw Thomas
Like many provincial towns numerous businesses here did not survive lock-down. This included a small restaurant who always did a veggie meal for us. We had to resort to a Thai Street Food outlet but, at least, it was piping hot and we could eat in.
Hotel staff were welcoming as in the past and there’s a convivial lounge bar which rounded off the evening nicely. We’d also been up-graded on arrival. As we left for Paris and Calais that’s how it felt in motoring terms: up-graded. We’ll miss this car.
By Huw Thomas
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